A vivid fusion of Chinese and Indian cooking makes for an unexpected haven in Cumbria
Gilpin Hotel, Crook Road, Windermere LA23 3NP (01539 488818). Snacks and small dishes £5-£12. Larger dishes £12-£17.50 Desserts £6-£8. Wines from £22.
Gilpin Spice is an act of bravery, fashioned from raw wood, vibrant dangling lampshades, tamarind, garlic, ginger, noodles and open guttering flames. Its interest in southeast Asia and, in particular, Desi-Chinese food, a venerable amalgam of Chinese and Indian styles courtesy of Hakka immigration into Kolkata, would be bold down London’s Walworth Road. Here, just a polished stone’s throw from Windermere in the Lake District, it’s almost wilful.